Injury Update

Collar bone snapped in half from running downhill on the trail and eating it on a few rocks. I got to come up with a better story?

After a visit to a doctor, I’m excited to say I’m healing quite well. I should be able to go back to work in a month which is quite good as I’m out of money. (Originally thought it would be until August) As far as climbing, we’ll see. I don’t want to rush things but I also don’t want to wait longer then I should. I’m hoping in July I can start slowly getting into the swing of things. Then in August, I can start dry tooling in Vail and start  getting stronger for the mixed. (Just skip the whole rock climbing season)I’ve gained 4 pounds from all the sitting around I’ve done. I’ve watched 6 seasons of the Office, read almost every Alpinist magazine, and sat around time after time.

14er Mount Evans Summit Sunset

If all goes well, I have some business I need to take care of in Canada this fall/winter, something big.

I have been sort of depressed in the last couple of weeks but it’s just part of life I need to understand. It all happened for a reason. Coming back from this injury, when all is said and done, I’ll be ready and more motivated then ever. I’ll need to train that much harder and be that much more ready to crush. At least it happened in the summer and not the winter!

The Highest Circus Traffic Jam

This little rant is something I’ve been meaning to post for many many months.

“So when are you climbing Everest?”

Every time I hear that question, it makes me want to cringe and get pissed off. It’s not the other persons fault for asking, they just don’t know the details. What if I told you Everest was really not that big of a deal, and that you yourself could pay your way up it for a little over 50 grand? Not that much experience but you have the money? It’s okay, give us the money and we’ll drag you to the top. Over 750 people are on Everest right now! Most of that on one route!! Every foot step on the route is being taken by someone. On summit day you have to wait in line for your chance. Three people just died due to waiting to long near the summit and getting hit by a storm. Two more are missing. Every camp is pre set up with your sleeping bag inside, with some chocolate on top of your pillow. It’ mandatory it seems to have Oxygen to aid your ascent. Sherpa’s carry everything for you and set up many miles of fixed ropes for you to jug up.

What about K2, Masherbrum, or how about the Ogre?

Everyone that asks me that question, I try to explain that Everest is a freaking circus. It’s not the “biggest” deal out there. For Colorado, that’s like getting asked when you are going to “hike” Mt Elbert, a class 1 walk up, when you have Capitol Peak, a class 4 scramble, in the same general region. In general, that is not a good comparison because the mountains in Colorado are very weak compared to those in any other country. Maybe I have become a purist. I just hate to see where this is heading. It’s horrible. I hate even more being asked that. Don’ take it as me saying Everest is the easiest thing ever. It’s not. Compare it to the other mountains of the world and you’ll see what I am trying to explain.

It seems to be just an ego booster for a lot so they can have bragging rights. That’s what it appears at least for some in there teens or early 20′s that did it. Something to impress the girls. I just climb for a completely different reason then to simply impress others. I don’t care what other people think about my climbing life. I know what I want deep in my heart and I’m chasing it.

I’d rather go to the city then go to Everest. I’m not going to sit here and point at someone saying your in the wrong. It just isn’t my scene. For me, Everest will be visited someday but in a different season or by a new/obscure route. Until I have the skills for that, it will remain just that, a goal. There’s no doubt, that I could have done it in 2010 or 2011 if I had the money, but I’m glad I didn’t. For me, it’s changed. I’m not going to rape the mountain and do whatever I can to get to the summit. For me, it’s the way and style in which you reach the summit that’s most important. That’s where the word adventure comes into play.

Where is the adventure? Am I the only one that thinks this is disgusting?

Dispatch 1 5/20/12 Camp McKelvin

Due to a recent extreme turn of events of snapping my collar bone in half from running, I will now be reporting from my couch.

After much thought and preparation, I ready to go through a journey into the unknown. My goal, with the help of my friends, is to document an Expedition of Biblical proportions! I am broken physically but mentally strong and ready to dive into the depths of my conciseness.

In short order, I have already set the tempo for my expedition. I am here at Camp McKelvin by myself in my man cave. I find it weird that I have not seen 749 other people. I just linked up the Office, seasons 2 and 3, in 15 hours 38 minutes and 7 seconds couch 2 couch. I got it clean. The crux was navigating to the kitchen along with almost passing out from the pain along with doing everything with my left hand. That’s why the bathroom sucks. I think I got the speed record though!

Today is a new day, I am going to take a couple steps outside. I want to push the journey on to Camp Chevy Impala but can’t rush it. I really have to acclimatize. I may just go touch the camp and descend back to Camp McKelvin. I look on to the future and the summit which seems so high and far away. Do I have what it takes? So much training, money, and preparation has went into this. I mean, I’ve been sleeping 13 hours a day!

I am passing up time but there is only so much I can do. I have only one arm. Within arm reach I can change the channel to scenery I want. I have water, food, paper, drugs, books, toilet paper, body pillows, ice, and music right by me. It’s made me realize I can reach personal excellence in some other way. Today, progress will be made. I will conquer! I will not be beat down! I only hope I can join the 749 other people on summit day. I think that will be walking the stage at graduation from college in Missouri. Climbing has just seemed to be boring in the last couple of days. Until then I will have my meds and toilet paper very close by, ready to tackle any altitude sickness I may have. This is the top achievement out there! I want it bad!

Stay tuned in my blog as I have no idea where this is leading. I am fighting onwards and reporting from the couch. Keep it real!

Noah McKelvin

It Is What You Make of It

The Great Mt. Chephren

Recently, I have been bogged down working long hours. Whenever I have a day off, rain prevents me from getting out. Well kind of, I just did some dry tooling yesterday at a crag while it down poured. What the hell am I doing here? I find myself sitting down staring at objectives around the world or how good conditions are in Canada right now with Chris Alstrin and Josh Wharton just climbing the “Wild Thing” on Mt. Chephren. Jealousy sets in as it’s such a beautiful line. I stare at the forecast for Banff, Alberta and notice it’s forecasted to be sunny all weekend while I sit at home in the rain. I love Colorado and all but man do I miss Canada. Conditions seem to be good. Opportunity slowly seems to passing. Missing opportunity is a pet peeve of mine. I’ll keep on complaining but it is what you make of it.

Hallett Peak with Hallett Chimney on the left and the Slit on the right

Conditions in Colorado have been turning out okay recently. Chris Sheridan and I recently linked up the Slit (IV 250m, M6) and Hallett Chimney (IV 250m AI5 M5+) on Halett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park in 11 hours car to car. It was a much needed alpine day with covering almost 2,000 feet of mixed terrain. The Slit has had some history with Steve Su taking 7 or so trips to finally complete the route with Jonny Copp. The Hallett Chimney also has a bit of history and is one of the more coveted mixed climbs in the park. I led the first block and took us to the top of Hallett Chimney in a couple hours. After regaining energy and eating, Chris then took over on the Slit and took us to the top.

Fun moderate terrain

Getting steeper. I’m in yellow blending in.

Starting some of the crux climbing

Looking down after the final bit of hard climbing

At the top it eases off to some nice alpine ice for a pitch to the top

I find myself still in the mixed mood. Rock climbing has seemed to be put on hold for many months. While it’s slowly turning summer here in Colorado, I hope to find escape to Canada soon.

Chris on the steep P1 of the Slit

Chris on the crux of the route

Chris on the last pitch of the Slit

Nice views on top out Number 2

If not, you’ll find me dry tooling those “perfect” finger cracks on chossy chunks of rock getting ready for Peru in July, full of ambition and determination.

Erik sending a fun M8 “The Mauling” at Vail while the ice was melting

Spiral Staircase. The last of the ice in Vail

Danny following the last pitch of Doub Griffith after a link up, one of my very few days in Eldorado Canyon this year. It included 4 amazing 5.11 pitches. Better then the Naked Edge in my opinion!

Attacking the Choss

The Titan

“Well let’s just hit the Titan on the way to Zion,” I state to Brian.

That’s how I sucker others into my awesome plans. I pose them as “not that big of a deal.” While I know they are, my climbing partners actually believe it to be a good idea. Of course, I also have a hard time saying no to climbing trips so I guess convincing me is just as easy. This time though, I had to do no convincing with Brian, we were both game on. This time it was my long time goal of getting to the top off the king of all desert towers, the Titan.

When you wear this, there is something wrong

Let me introduce to you the Titan. It is not friendly. It is almost something that’s in a nightmare for most climbers. It’s big (1,000+ feet tall) and it’s mean. By moonlight, it seems to haunt you in your sleep. It’s unearthly. Nothing in this world is quite like it. It’s scary to touch and it’s scary to place gear in. The Titan is climbed for sure (maybe 1000 ascents ever) but it has an 80% failure rate and there is a reason why, it ain’t granite and the aid rating is deceiving. It’s just C3 right? The Fisher Towers go off of Jim Beyer’s rating system basically. Meaning, the rating’s here are known to be stoudt mainly because of the rock/mud. It changes by ascent! It’s game on here. Ladies and gentlemen, this is the Fisher Towers. When the mud calls, you must go.

Climbing the mud up to the tower.

I seem to chase the ultimate choss while others chase the best rock. I have found that the worse rock it is, the less the crowds, and more the adventure! Therefore, I do enjoy choss.

Fisher Towers in the mist

Every time I have been around the Fishers whether Ancient Art, Cobra, or Castleton, the Titan has been on my mind but I’ve heard so many stories about is being so scary. I had heard that from a few people so that’s what I seemed to believe. Everyone I had talked to about it that had got on it bailed due to unreliable protection. “If one piece blows, it all goes man.” I have had this bad image from what other people have stated. One horrible experience for one can be a living dream for another I guess.

Layton Kor got dragged into climbing the Titan by George Hurley and Ingalls. (Sound familiar?) At the base of the route on the first ascent of Finger of Fate, he shouted,” We are all going to die up here!” in a laughing mood. It took them ALL day to go 300 feet. Kor stated if the rock did not improve they were turning around. It was just that bad. That’s saying a lot for Layton Kor as he has done some real loose rock in the Black Canyon! A week later, they returned and finished the route over the next two days. It was featured on National Geographic. Kor really believed it was the best route ever upon reaching the top but he never returned to the Fisher Towers again. That say’s something for the rock there.

Everyone said something different about it and everyone had different ratings for the routes from a pitch being C1 to C3 or 5.8 to 5.10c. That’s a big difference! We brought everything from some pins to lowe balls, hooks, and offsets. We just had no clue what to expect so we brought everything. Talk about a huge rack!

“So your leading the scary pitches right Brian?”

On the drive there, we decided to start the trip right. The Sword of Damocles is a 100 foot tower outside of Grand Junction. It appeared in the classic new Desert Towers coffee table book. I first saw a picture of it a little before that from Paul Ross on the FA. The rock was not rock, it was all mud. This did in fact make the fisher towers look like granite and I think may be the worse rock I have ever climbed on.

“If we do it, I’m pretty sure we’ll be the 3^rd ascent,” Brian states to me.

“Sweet man! I’ll lead first!” I quickly chime in.

Brian convinced me to let him lead first. I was sad at first until I stood at the base of this tower that we really were afraid was going to fall over. I usually have taken the first lead so I decided it would be good for him to go first, especially if it’s ssscccarrryyy. My records of asking Brian if I could lead the pitch aren’t good. One of them was a 120 foot runout on 5.8 friction, and another on all pitons sticking out several inches in mud. So I guess it didn’t take much for me to let him have it. I guess it comes down to, who is pissed off at life more?

Brian leading

We parked with a ton of people hiking towards Mt Garfield as we got the ropes out. Everyone really did stare at us but I’m used to getting that look. We grabbed the nine inch nails; tie offs, some biners, and we are off. The hike up was scary. We had to hike up the ridge of mud which seemed to reach 50 degrees with not a fun fall on either side. It was like being on bad snow. That feeling of insecurity stuck with us, as all the top layer of mud was sliding in massive chunks just waiting for use to slide along with it. We switched breaking trail up the mud until a scary down climb brought us to the base.

Brian told me he didn’t see the “fixed” nails. I knew they were there but I could tell Brian had all of sudden went silent, and for a long period of time. I could tell he was really nervous if this was the right or should we call it smart thing to do. I admit, this thing was REALLY loose. He stated he didn’t see the next nail but I stated for him to get up there and find it as it may be covered in mud. I could tell he was mad at asking for the first lead and probably really annoyed of my voice telling him to go for it. “It’s only C2+”

“Dude, as long as it holds your body weight, you’re good to go! Just test each one.”

There are my words of wisdom. I wore goggles and a bandana around my face since there was mud falling on me the whole time Brian was up there. I’m talking about more mud falling then the ice you get crashing down in ice climbing. It was going down my shirt. Brian stated at every piece that it was a bad piece. They were all flexing. By the top few though, we were convinced that they were actually pretty solid! Brian put in a new nail next to one that was sticking out maybe 4 or 5 inches. He had to uncover a couple as well as they were buried. He stated that the whole summit block moved when he grabbed the webbing that was wrapped around it. He got lowered off fast off a lone bolt sticking halfway out. The summit block was the only rock on the whole tower, not much. It’s the only thing holding it up though.

Myself on the summit on the 3rd ascent

I soon went on the sharp end and got to the top. Brian took a couple pictures and I came down. The crazy thing is, Brian and I loved it and had a blast! We went down the sketchy descent feeling very confident about the Titan. It just can’t get much worse then that. Looking back, it was a great thing that we climbed that. Brian and I are also pretty used to really bad rock so this may sound crazy but the Fisher’s were actually pretty solid.

We arrived just at Sunset. I had forgotten just how huge the Titan was. Brian and I laid our sleeping bags out in the parking lot and went to bed excited like little school girls. The weather called for bad wind and perhaps rain in the afternoon. We wanted to blast it in a day but decided to just fix the first 300 feet due to weather.

Parking lot bivy

We woke up early and got the gear together. Really heavy loads were carried to the bottom of the route. The route is out there. You really have to traverse all around the tower to get to it. No crowds around just us on what seems to be Mars. The Titan, the real deal! Adventure awaits us. I get super excited and rack up.

Looking up from the base

I free the first half of the 150 ft pitch and then french free when the moments are right on the second half of the pitch. The rock is really sandy. It went at about 5.10 C2. The C2 part was not super scary but it was exciting for sure. TCU’s in mud are always memorable. As you weight it, it start’s breaking the mud around it. I do a scary mantle and get to the anchor. I fix the rope for Brian and haul the pack. I coil the ropes and get it ready for Brian. I’ve been told this next pitch is the crux. We planned on doing it in one 150 ft pitch but broke it up into two 75 ft. pitches due to gear. While only 75 feet, it’s a memorable one. Brian states how crappy the gear is at the start. I look at it thinking how it’s pretty good since I placed many of those. The top of the pitch was the crux, tri cams in pin scars. These tri cams were scary. He made many marginal placements until he fixed the rope at the anchors. I cleaned it and barely have to touch some of the pieces for them to fall out. The wind was horrendous! Gusts were blowing me like I was on a swing, hanging there. Sand was blowing down the route like crazy. Where are my goggles?

Titan

The route in shade

Brian cruxing it

I jug to the crammed anchor. I told Brian to continue the next short pitch and Ill take over from there since it would be straight up crazy to get above Brian. I told Brian the next pitch should be easier, as that’s what I’ve heard. Brian took off expecting some good pieces here and there. He was disappointed. It was all pin scars. Tri cams in pin scars and small TCU’s in mud. In other words, it was solid C3 with just cams and stoppers. We were wishing we had some sawed off angle pitons to hand place and make it less scary. Brian held it together risking a very big scary fall if something blew.

Jugging

“Dude, I’m going to fall.” Brian shouts to me.

I whisper to myself of how he really shouldn’t. After 3 hours on two short pitches, Brian fixed the rope. I jugged and had no idea this pitch would be the crux! I cleaned one piece where the rock exploded around it when I barely took it out. The wind continued getting stronger and it seemed like it was going to storm anytime. We stopped one pitch behind schedule to fix the ropes to the ground. We left all the gear at the base and made it back to the car. Oh wait, we almost made it to the car until Brian forgot the key’s in the pack back at the base. He went all the way back to get them. I hung around and climbed some minor easy towers. Soon we both made it back to the car.

It’s about to storm! Lets get off!

Driving back to Moab we were confident in our efforts. We were done with the crux right? The weather got crazy and we woke up to snow pissed. Clouds were drifting around the Titan making it look like a misty haunted mansion. Brian and I went to scramble up Elephants Butte in Arches and flew a kite along with a Frisbee. Anything to pass time by! We climbed some single pitch towers and soon a weather window opened. It was time to stop dirt bagging it in Moab and go for it. I had heard from a couple people that the traversing pitch, the next pitch above the fixed ropes, was the crux. It was my lead.

Elephant Butte Summit

Sunrise

Alpine start for desert towers? We got done jugging the ropes a little after sunrise. We had no clue what the rest of the route would be like. I set off for the traverse. This traverse was no 5.6 that it was said to be, even by Eldo or other standards. I soon get to the crux, an overhang with sketchy fixed tri cams. I clip the next one with a screamer, aid it, it flexes, the usual. I then place a #3 in a pin scar above to get above that horribly awkward roof. I test it and it holds. I step up and right when I get towards the top step, the piece pops. I start falling. There are times when falling is fun and there are times when falling is downright scary. When you fall and realize that your falling and how you are not suppose to be falling! The tri cam somehow held and I was back up and thrashed up the flared 5.8ish squeeze chimney with sketchy gear. Fix the rope and rest!

“The” Traverse Pitch

What held the fall! Bomber!

Brian thankfully took the next lead and aided the grungy offwidth. From there I took off around the 3^rd class “Duck” traverse. It was more like low fifth class. Brian followed and I was off on the 5.8 chimney that was short and more like 5.6. Super soft! This was the bivy ledge Kor spent the night on along with all the rest that were up here at dark. We took a mental rest break and then I took off for a very scary “jump” over the void to a crimp risking a big pendulum fall. Some 5.8 C2+ aiding took me to the anchors. Finally, I was done leading. One pitch left that was for Brian.

Brian leading the OW

Traverse of the duck

The short next pitch looking back at the duck

Brian jugging

Then the REACHY bolt ladder. I’m talking about 10+ foot gaps between bolts and pins requiring extreme trickery. Brian took off and after a while topped out with extreme rope drag. I followed and found it scary just jugging the pitch. You are totally hanging out there and the pitch traverses a bit at the top. We scrambled to the top together and soon we were standing on top of the Titan!

Mental break

Spectacular stance on arete. No I don’t have 4 feet. Photo just messed up.

Brian on the last pitch

I smoked a cigar and took it all in. A goal that for so long I thought I would never have the balls to commit to. It really wasn’t as bad as it’s said to be but I like this kind of rock. The descent was a little scary but soon we were so stoked to have climbed it.

Summit

Brian with the classic shot

We made plans for the next tower and a little over a week later climbed King Fisher tower with Derek which was pretty cruiser for most of it. (5.8 C2) I think both of our goals have turned to climbing all the major towers in the Fishers along with sinking our teeth into the Mystery Towers.

Derek on the exposed pitch of King Fisher

Summit of King Fisher with the Titan in the back drop

Why would you do such a thing?

Perhaps you’ll have to venture to this special place to understand such motives.

 

A whole lot of screamers

Bolt on top of the Sword

Lizard Rock

Carson’s Tower

North Six Shooter

Addicted to the “Game”

The mountains are calling….I must go.

 

Some of my best moments in climbing have been out by myself. You only are responsible for yourself and not for anyone else. Ever since I started climbing, going solo in whatever way has been a part of me, if you should say. Staying away from the crowds and pushing myself as a climber. I kind of need it every once in a while. I like to challenge myself and I learn more about myself then anything else in these experiences. I hate following society’s way so maybe that’s why I’m a rebel against society, maybe that’s why climbing fits me.

Attempting winter ascent of a route on Longs

My obsession with climbing never goes away. Whenever I’m not climbing, all I can do or research is other mountains or routes around the world. Sometimes I wonder deeply where it’s taking me and sometimes I wonder what is wrong with me. It’s not normal but it’s better then doing drugs. All I know is that deep in my heart, it’s what I was made for.

Route follows center ice to McHenry’s Peak in the back

I had been wanting to do the Grade V link up of the ice route West Gully above Black lake in RMNP to the Right Gully on McHenry’s Peak. I thought it would be a challenging day out by myself with lots of scrappy climbing along with some ice. I packed the rope and gear to rope solo the crux M5ish pitch on Right Gully and planned to third class all the ice and more moderate mixed terrain above. Sleeping is hard before a big climb. The whole day was playing out in my head, pitch by pitch. But soon….

“BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP,” the alarm rang right in my ear at 2 A.M.

‘Oh shut up! I could just stay in bed and sleep in,” I mutter as if the alarm clock hears me.

I get on my clothes and head out with my pack, hoping that the only money I have will give me enough gas for there and back.

West Gully

I arrive at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead with not one car around and start on the trail around 4:30 A.M. The breeze makes the tree’s sway making a creaking sound. I continue on arriving at Mills Lake. I walked around the Lake fearing breaking through the ice with all these warm temperatures. The trail then took me straight over Jewels Lake. Then navigation past all the dead fall had to be made before I arrived at Black Lake at sunrise.

Amazing

This is why I do this! A beautiful glow cast in the sky. I started walking straight across Black Lake which was pretty frozen, so I thought. Cracking sounds started to be made. I rushed to the side and got off the lake.

Come on Noah, be smart, don’t do anything dumb.

I got to the base of West Gully and pondered.

This looks really wet. Maybe I should just head back to the trailhead.

It’s the fear that always bubbles up inside my head. I push it away. I come in contact with my senses constantly knowing which senses I should listen to and which ones I need to ignore.

Endless ice slabs

 

 

McHenry’s Peak with intended line up the right side of face

I flake out the tag line rope I brought as it’s better tagging it then carrying it and up I go. It was a shower and then some. On the crux, some stemming between the rock and ice was made until I was presented with the top two pitches, WI2+ slabs that went on forever pumping your calves out. Good exposure. I was sure I was the last ascent of the season. All this warm weather is melting all this ice and all the mixed climbing is rock climbing right now. Sad day.

After topping out, I realized some recent slides had come down McHenry’s. It was just too hot already for conditions to be safe. Since Right Gully includes a lot of snow climbing as well, I opted for Stone mans pass. I continued on Class 4 and low 5th class ridge to the summit.

Looking down at some of the scrambling near the summit

 

NICE!

 

Summit

I laid down in the sun thinking about life. What a great experience. No one anywhere near me. I had been wanting this peak for a while. I soon descended along with a rappel and steep snow down climbing to get off West Gully. Soon I was approached with many on the trail. I got back to the car after around 9 or 10 hours. I usually want to kill myself walking back to the car, after a day in the park. This time I felt good the whole way with no problems.

Amazing view

 

Sometimes the mountains call and you must go. So what are you waiting for?

 

Breaking the Ice On Octopussy

* Video footage coming soon. Check back in a couple weeks.

“There is a fine line between dumb ass and bad ass” Jim Bridwell

Jeff Lowe on the first attempt of Octopussy (WI6 M8) Photo by Brad Johnson

Thoughts

“I’m surprised your still in Colorado, when are you going to the Himalayas?,” Trevor stated to me a couple days ago.

This got me thinking in depth about my life in general and where I need to be heading.

Leading the Seventh Tentacle

Sometime I wonder why I push myself in climbing, why I’m so ambitious, and where I’m heading. I really do want to pioneer routes on the biggest alpine faces out there, I just don’t have the funds to do that much international traveling to train for that goal. I’ve had to support my climbing life all by myself with no help from the parents while many around my age have there parents paying for most stuff. It’s taught me many things and I am by no means mad about it. I guess that’s why I take training so seriously, getting out and pushing my ability farther and farther to get me ready for the ultimate goals I have in life. Climbing is not just something I do, it’s my life. With only one life, I want to be the best my body will possibly allow. In a way, I feel I have “out climbed” Colorado if you could say. I’m not saying this in a egotistic way as there will always be challenging things to do here. I just want something bigger more often. Even though I’ve made several international trips in the last 2 years, it just doesn’t seem like enough. I need to work on my bigger goals. Maybe that will mean Patagonia next winter for a few months or Peru or Alaska this summer. Though Octopussy is just under 150 feet long, I think it fit the “big” category.

About to commit to the horizontal roof

So what did I want for my 20th birthday?

On the strenous ice of Octopussy

Breaking the Ice

Full of expressions behind the curtain

Octopussy has striked fear whenever I have heard of it in the past years. Back when it was first ascended in 1994 by Jeff Lowe; it was the ultimate test piece in the world. It brought the rush of modern mixed climbing. Though there are routes these days that are harder (most on bolts), Octopussy has still remained a big, serious, and feared challenge. No bolts and kind of all balls. It was the first climb at a grade of M8 and it ends with a WI6 curtain. The pictures of Jeff Lowe on it have made me amazed. Maybe someday I’ll be at the level to have a go at it. At that point, a dream had been made. I think that’s been my life. It’s been full of dreams and adventure I await to have the skill to embark on. This climb seems to be avoided these days but still remains in every ice climber’s knowledge of the climb that started the rush of modern mixed climbing.

Christian Mason leading the Seventh Tentacle with Octopussy in the upper left corner.

Sometimes a certain route or mountain just calls to your heart as a climber and all that’s left for you to do is act on it. Octopussy was originally on the dream list (ain’t every climb on it?) but after climbing the Seventh Tentacle several times this year (basically the route you use to start Octopussy) I was seriously inspired! I’m sure climbing friends got tired of me talking about wanting to do it.  I was excited and I just felt like telling people about it. I guess you have to be a bit obsessed to climb something like this. Late this winter, I have felt ready to have a go at this legendary classic. I have felt it was my place to get on it. An ascent of Octopussy just boggled my mind and I was dreaming of it but this line is just down right intimidating. I thought it would be sort of cool as well if I got up it at an age of 19, as a teenager. I wanted to at least look at it closely and see what it was all about.

The belay setting. Amazing!

So what does an ascent include? Seventh Tentacle is a smear of ice behind the Fang in Vail, CO. M6+ dry tooling for 3 bolts brings you to the ice where usually WI5 ice brings you 100 feet to the bolt anchor below the huge roof. From here you part off and do a 40 or so foot traverse at M4 ish that is very exposed and while the climbing is not difficult, the pro is questionable in spots and pendulums falls could be big. Though if you fall, you should re think about what your doing. From a spot behind the curtain, a 15 to 20 foot M8 chossy horizontal roof must be climbed to get the WI6 hanging curtain which must be turned on the front side. Once situated, WI5+ ice takes you to the top of the difficulties. Hanging curtains bring there own problems and dangers. Swinging to hard will bring the risk of bringing the whole thing down. No ice screws can be placed in them as if it failed it would bring you down even with a rope to probably your death. Then there is the fear of your rope getting cut on them. These are the things that run through your head when you’re considering climbing such things. It’s why extreme caution and patience needs to be had for such lines.

How do I go about this?

A couple weeks ago, Chris Mason and I climbed Seventh Tentacle. Chris belayed me up as I wanted to at least take a look at the moves and the curtain, perhaps giving it a go. The traverse was surprisingly not a “ledge” I had read about and was very exposed as I stated above. As I stood behind the curtain, I talked myself out of it, stating it was “out” of condition but really I was just scared. The quick draw on the fixed pin at the roof was filled with spider webs and everything looked like it had not been touched in years. The fixed protection at the roof worried me. Was it still solid in this horrible rock? The right side of the curtain where you transfer onto was not hanging down far meaning there would be almost no feet and all on the arms. The left side was formed well but you don’t climb on that side. I stated I would come back in a month and hopefully it would form far enough that I could skip the climbing on the overhang.

As the next couple days came, I realized I just had to open my eyes to the possibility. I was limiting my views. I realized I needed to have a go at it. It was “in” and as long as the protection was there, there was no reason to not try the dry tooling part. There were no signs of fractures on the actual hanging curtain. I stared at pictures of it along with the ones I took behind it. I spent a lot of time just trying to figure out how to go about it. How in the world do you get on the front side??? It had what seemed tentacles blocking access to the front. Back to Jeff Lowe’s pictures I went to when he did it. It came to a point where I knew it was time to have an honest go at it, to at least try the moves at the roof if anything.

Micah following The Seventh Tentacle

I talked to a couple partners but they either didn’t want to or just couldn’t get up there. I sent Micah Salazar a message and he replied about simply going to Vail the next day. Micah is a strong partner that I have enjoyed climbing with anytime I have. He asked me what I wanted to do.

“Octopussy” I stated.

I don’t know if he was shocked or more scared about the idea. I think he knew I was serious about it though with past climbs we have done. He had been busy the last few days and was tired so I was happy to lead. Barely anyone was there and it started off not really cold so we rushed to get roped up. I set off and belayed him up in the middle of the traverse for Octopussy. He came up and did not like this traverse but soon joined me. I procrastinated it seemed as much as possible.

Octopussy

This has to be one of the more intimidating lines in Colorado. Soon I had no choice and set off. Behind the curtain, I clipped about 5 pieces including my number 1 cam, equalized it all, extended it like crazy, and didn’t want to fall on it as the fall would be crappy on the ledge. After a bit of breathing, I set off for one wild route. Dry tooling the roof, I just couldn’t clip those pins! I down climbed to rest and back up I went only again to come down when a hold broke and a whole bunch of dirt went in my eyes making my vision not so well. This wasn’t starting to well. The 3^rd time was a charm. After another move, I had to almost swing my body at a full horizontal extension to barely touch the quick draw. I grabbed the rope and after some hassle, clipped it. After another move I yelled to Micah to take. I wanted to make sure it held my body weight before being confident it would hold a fall, after all, they are some old pins in some horrible rock. Testing….1…2…

It held as I bounce tested it. I swung to the ice and took an actual fall. They held again. After gaining my trust I was ready to try to figure out how in the world to get on the front. Fear struck as I was hanging there. What a position! I had another go just to find out the moves out to the front. I swung to the ice with a big awkward sideways reach. After two swings it was in. I Tarzan swung my legs over. I matched my hands on the ice tool, put my left foot on the backside of the curtain along with my right foot on the front side in a strenuous almost horizontal front lever position. I swung higher on the front side with my right tool locking off with my left arm. The ice was overhanging with hanging daggers making finding a place to swing quite hard. I swung and fractured the ice. I started falling as a huge 4+ foot chunk sheered off on my elbow and then leg as I was left in mid air. It didn’t feel well.

The hard climbing and transfer to the front

“This is insane man!”  I stated to Micah. I had figured out how to get to the front though! I was ready for a serious go now.

I pulled back up and rested. Mentally, this was kind of taxing. I told Micah that I’d give it one more go and that’s all it took. After some rest, I had to swing higher in the ice from a high hook with my left ice tool on a small edge in the rock. I got it and did the same procedure but this time really barely swung with my ice tools and feet. I was in the front lever position again and had to swing right wards on the front side so I could be above my feet almost in the sit up manner. Very strenuous but soon I was above my right foot and soon both feet. After 10 more feet of running it out I was face to face with the fracture line for the curtain. You couldn’t see this what so ever from the back. I placed a 10 cm stubby ice screw above it. You never want to place one below as if the curtain falls, you’re in trouble. I went up to the top of the difficulties. I placed my tools on level ground while in the tripod stance and started making the anchor. The ice was not accepting a screw very well and layers were breaking while placing it. I tried again. It was a minute then all of sudden my left foot just popped right off out of no where and out of balance I was sent without my ice tools down. My left foot was in a groove when it did pop off. Why it took a minute for it to pop off, beats me. It seemed solid.

Yikes

I couldn’t breath while falling. I was seriously scared.

POP!

All I remember thinking is “I’m falling leading ice.” The number 1 rule in leading ice is don’t fall. I have never taken a whip on ice until then and never want to again. I had talked to other professional climbers that have and just feared it!

I fell 15 to 20 feet and the screw held while the screamer deployed the whole way on the smallest ice screw out there. I was stuck staring at Micah in complete surprise and shock. I couldn’t believe what just happened.  I was building an anchor after putting away the difficulties, and all of sudden gone! I felt solid and all of sudden gone.

I can only imagine the face I made while looking at Micah.

He lowered me about 45 to 50 meters to the ground. I kept the weight on the rope as Micah aided and cleaned the gear at the start of the roof. He soon rappelled and joined me. We walked around to the top and rappelled and grabbed my ice tools along with the screw that held me.

A guy nearby stated that if I was going to fall on a route, then Octopussy was one heck of a route to do it on. Micah simply stated it was a victory whip. What happened on this day will remain in my memory for quite some time. I feel this route is a part of me now. It will always remain a test piece and a legendary route. It was definitely one of the more wild routes I have got on. I want to thank Micah for the amazing belay and cooperation with what happened. I wish I could have belayed him up on it. Next time, I’ll hang off the tools directly while making the anchor, or clip a quick draw to the ice tool and run the rope through it. It just didn’t come to mind at the time.

I’m still shocked of how fast it happened. It’s just a reminder how a couple little details can add up to one bad situation. Mixed climbing is a serious game.

Red Bull and Vodka P1

It was my last day of being 19 and it was one crazy way to end my teenage years. Here is quite a few more photo’s below of my past few weeks. It’s been a while since my last post.

Visit Octopussy’s route page on Mountain project. (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/octopussy/107474468#a_107489520)

Ouray Ice Park

The challenging Super Dave (M7+ trad Ouray Ice Park)

One move from the ice and a hook pulled. No onsight Seamstress (M8)

Leading P1 of Ames Ice Hose. Protection was imaginary.

Onsight of Salsa Lisa (M7)

Ice Park

On top of the Fang

A remarkable P2 of Ames Ice Hose

Overnight ice climbing. Long Exposure shot

Jason leading the Dez

Vail is awesome!

Seventh Tentacle