A Pure Experience (Update November 2011)

My stoke level for ice and mixed is very high right now. In the matter of fact, I can’t even touch rock unless it’s with my ice tools and crampons. The season is forming better then I’ve seen in the last two years. Training is beginning for Alaska in May. I quit rock climbing in mid September and really fully commited my time to the ice. There wasn’t any so I was in Vail drytooling. I redpointed my hardest route to date on mixed on my second try, the uber classic Amphibian’s first pitch at M8. I spent a night in the big “cave” really commiting myself to the season, after all this is what I live for. I’ve been training harder and harder in the gym and getting on all the ice I can find which then, was not much, but now, overwhelming.

On a flash of a new M6 in Vail, CO

Then to Alexander’s Chimney (last post) and Lincoln Falls. Mentally, I really had a breakthrough. I have spent a few days at Lincoln Falls just about climbing every single ice and mixed line there. I got in a WI5− lead. I came back a week later and climbed it without a rope. The climb was calling to me deep in my heart for it to be just me and the ice, nothing else. So pure, and amazing. Yes, this is what I live for!

Then I spent some time in the Park slogging and climbing some ice. Heading there this Friday to work off that turkey!

I’ll leave it at this.

“I want it now. I want my dreams now. I think I have the worst patience in mankind.” (Journal thoughts from October 2011)

I think I really do have the worst patience out there in some ways. I think it’s why I really fully commit my life to climbing. It’s what I was made for. I want to reach the top and then some more. Alpinism is the way of my future and I’m going to work harder then my body thought was possible to get to my goals. May life be plentiful for you too. Happy soon to be Thanksgiving.

Capitol Peak a year and a half ago

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About Noah McKelvin

Never skip a day of living life
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