It Is What You Make of It

The Great Mt. Chephren

Recently, I have been bogged down working long hours. Whenever I have a day off, rain prevents me from getting out. Well kind of, I just did some dry tooling yesterday at a crag while it down poured. What the hell am I doing here? I find myself sitting down staring at objectives around the world or how good conditions are in Canada right now with Chris Alstrin and Josh Wharton just climbing the “Wild Thing” on Mt. Chephren. Jealousy sets in as it’s such a beautiful line. I stare at the forecast for Banff, Alberta and notice it’s forecasted to be sunny all weekend while I sit at home in the rain. I love Colorado and all but man do I miss Canada. Conditions seem to be good. Opportunity slowly seems to passing. Missing opportunity is a pet peeve of mine. I’ll keep on complaining but it is what you make of it.

Hallett Peak with Hallett Chimney on the left and the Slit on the right

Conditions in Colorado have been turning out okay recently. Chris Sheridan and I recently linked up the Slit (IV 250m, M6) and Hallett Chimney (IV 250m AI5 M5+) on Halett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park in 11 hours car to car. It was a much needed alpine day with covering almost 2,000 feet of mixed terrain. The Slit has had some history with Steve Su taking 7 or so trips to finally complete the route with Jonny Copp. The Hallett Chimney also has a bit of history and is one of the more coveted mixed climbs in the park. I led the first block and took us to the top of Hallett Chimney in a couple hours. After regaining energy and eating, Chris then took over on the Slit and took us to the top.


Fun moderate terrain

Getting steeper. I’m in yellow blending in.

Starting some of the crux climbing

Looking down after the final bit of hard climbing

At the top it eases off to some nice alpine ice for a pitch to the top

I find myself still in the mixed mood. Rock climbing has seemed to be put on hold for many months. While it’s slowly turning summer here in Colorado, I hope to find escape to Canada soon.

Chris on the steep P1 of the Slit

Chris on the crux of the route

Chris on the last pitch of the Slit

Nice views on top out Number 2

If not, you’ll find me dry tooling those “perfect” finger cracks on chossy chunks of rock getting ready for Peru in July, full of ambition and determination.

Erik sending a fun M8 “The Mauling” at Vail while the ice was melting

Spiral Staircase. The last of the ice in Vail

Danny following the last pitch of Doub Griffith after a link up, one of my very few days in Eldorado Canyon this year. It included 4 amazing 5.11 pitches. Better then the Naked Edge in my opinion!

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About Noah McKelvin

Never skip a day of living life
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