After a late night and not much sleep, Danny and I decided to go for the Black Wall on Mount Evans. All these routes are pretty committing and near 13,000 ft. A few rappels are needed to get to the base so you better get back out somehow. We left town at around noon (alpine start) only to realize storm clouds were forming. Danny had thoughts of lightning and a downpour while I was go happy and confident it would be sunny.
Under an hour later we were rapping over the edge. After a few we were at the base of the route, looking up, there are a bunch of overhangs that loomed over you. “Let’s get going!”
I launched up the first pitch of Good Evans (5.10+) that turned out to be a short crux. A thin seam with thin gear. I soon made a weird traverse to make an anchor. Danny started following and it started raining. Well the good thing is that there are roofs above, but the bad thing is, we need to get out of here!
Danny took off pitch 2 that is 5.8 I guess. It had a slightly overhanging fist crack at the top that Danny ran out because we didn’t bring enough big gear. “Dude I might just belay here, I’m running out of gear!” No, please don’t. He continued to a pod below the first roof. I took off and ran out the offwidth to a fun exposed roof traverse to build another anchor in the sort of rock you find in the Black Canyon. By this time it was a clear sky! A nice hanging belay that felt higher off the ground then it was. Wild!
Danny took the last pitch that went at 5.10/+. It was pretty weird but soon he belayed me up. My weak arms were giving out. Too much time on the couch! I took the last pitch and we both topped out at sunset. Sunset near 14,000 feet just never gets old. We walked back satisfied. Another fine adventure with a great friend. Danny and I have had some wild adventures in the past years. There is something about a climbing partnership like this. Something about trusting someone completely with your whole life that you really don’t find anywhere else. That’s the kind of person you want to be around.