I’m psyched as ever and planning my winter out full of travel hopefully. I finally got back on the trail running. I ran the 14’er Mt. Beirstadt in a hard hour and five minutes to the top. It felt like running full speed on treadmill breathing out of a small straw. I think it’s probably because I’m out of shape. Needless to say it felt good to get out and suffer. I might be in better running shape then before injury since I have been mainly working on that.
As far as the climbing goes, well its back to exploring more choss and trying to send hard on sport.
I must have asked 10 people if they wanted to join me on a new route on the Creek Side Wall in Clear Creek Canyon. Either excuses came or they had to work. (Maybe that’s one too) Well, I guess I’ll go attempt a solo of it and see what happens. You don’t know what you’re going to encounter until you’re doing it. It could be well protected 5.8 or scary hard run out. It’s all part of the adventure I enjoy. I knew better then to think there would be bomber protection on this route. It would be filled with loose rock.
I carried a heavy load to the base and made an anchor at the base for the rope’s since I was belaying myself. You know, take out 20 feet of slack, and try not to fall. The first pitch followed a large loose crack until it ended in a face climb with questionable gear far away. A bunch of lichen and holds breaking and finally I made it 50 meters to an anchor. You had to be extremely careful building this anchor. Lot’s of loose rock you don’t want to place gear in but it was bomber eventually. Down I go (since I have to clean the gear and anchor) I get down and jug back up. This is a lot of work for one chossy pitch!
So what does pitch 2 have in store for me? You want the lead? Oh wait, never mind. I set my eye’s for a double bolt anchor on another route 50 meters higher where I see a weakness for the top on the following pitch. Twenty feet up lands me a bomber .4 cam. Score! Ohhh wait. I go 60+ feet traversing without another piece carefully picking my way up and making sure not to fall. I was greated with some some sketchy rock attached somehow to the roofs above. At least I have a bomber piece not too far below. The real deal. I hit it and pull on it with eye’s wide open. Soon enough after some more run outs and some alright gear, I land on the belay ledge with a bomber anchor! Woohoo. By this time people were starring at me from the road probably thinking “What route is he on?” A psychotic one!
I rappel and clean the anchor and make the strenuous jug on the overhanging section back to the anchor. I make the strenuous crux move of the route with bomber gear and then traverse left and right to a dihedral that leads to the top. Bad gear continues and soon I find myself pulling on sketchy rock on a small roof with bad gear far below. I test every hold and make the 5.10a scary pull over. I then cruise to the top only to go back down to clean everything.
I think the name of the route is fitting. You probably shouldn’t fall really anywhere on the route though the crux of the route is well protected. A good route if you enjoy this sort of thing.
Psychotic Love (5.10 R/X 150m)