Author Archives: Noah McKelvin

I tried to find comfort in soaking my hands in my chalk bag. I tried to go to my happy place. Instead, I found myself in a dark place, reminded of the consequences if I should fail on this pitch. At my waist, I had 4 pitons in an expanding loose flake, and a 5 piece meager belay anchor in very loose blocks below that. All of the gear was in horrific rock. Above laid the unknown. There was steep choss with a double roof guarding the top 500 feet. I tried to commit but my body didn’t want to follow. I gently touched the first microwave sized hanging flake. I watched as it dropped an inch, Continue reading →

A report that shows the terrible details of our trial of climbing the infamous “Gothic Nightmare” Caution: Don’t read this if you want to climb it. (Seriously) Introduction Another night found me sleep talking. I woke myself up with just … Continue reading →

Sheesh. I almost forgot my password here. After climbing the East Ridge of Mt Logan (and traversing the whole mountain) in the Yukon Territory, I sort of lost motivation to write about my adventures. Too much to put down in … Continue reading →

As I stood at the very base of the Mooses Tooth, I heard a scream. It was the sort of scream from someone falling to there death. I looked up, scared. I saw a body falling from several thousand feet … Continue reading →

As we drove down the highway, I shared some stories of my experiences on the Navajo Reservation with Dave. A few of the experiences remind me of a dream. Part of the reason why I love climbing there is because … Continue reading →

Bomber Anchor Everyone has seen climbing grown into more popularity then ever before. It is not uncommon to wait in line for any classic climb whether it’s bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, or ice/mixed climbing. The Diamond on Longs Peak … Continue reading →

The ice season starts out the same every year whether or not there is ice or just rock. August sweeps in and soon I find myself training on my ice tools trying to hold on longer and longer. I find … Continue reading →